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The other approach is to cut the front and under collar separately, and the front facing with the collar cut on. Here are the front and under collar pattern shapes left , with the front facing for a notched collar centre and a shawl collar right. Such as Butterick One Eileen Fisher jacket uses a different fabric for the collar. Difficult to see in black, but the collar is layers of transparent fabric. So of course that has to be cut separately.
There are a couple of YouTube training videos for industrial sewing machinists. The videos use different methods for sewing front-plus-collar to back. In this first one, you start stitching from centre back, and back neck and shoulder seam are sewn in one continuous step. In this second one, shoulder seams are sewn first, then across the back neck.
This demo includes adding the facing. Shawl collar part 1 Shawl collar part 2. There are several other methods. Some people avoid getting kinks in the fabric by hand sewing the corner.
I prefer to machine sew each corner in 2 separate steps, starting from the corner each time. Four machining steps, so not used in industry! Make samples and see which technique you like. Try out the best height for you. Should it be where your body bends, higher, or lower? With my high round back and forward neck, I always have to change necklines and collars to get a good fit.
What about the soft roll of the colar. Is this right for you, or is a firmly pressed flat collar more to your personal style? Which would give the best emphasis to your body shape? And notice how the fronts are cut away from the centre line below the button. This adds vertical lines below the waist, even when the jacket is buttoned.
Flattering for some of us. Also means that, when buttoned, the edges of the front opening make an X shape look at the photos rather than a Y. Which shape might be more flattering on you? Try out how much if any cut away of the lower fronts would be good.
Perhaps by folding existing jacket fronts away at the front edge to see what looks best. And the placing and angle of the pocket welts? On me, emphasis at high hip level is best avoided, so I would make these nearer vertical.
So, if I made one of these jackets, there are several good reasons to start with a test muslin to try out the details. We'll never post without your permission.
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