Four buttons are standard for a suit jacket sleeve while a sports jacket usually has only two. Polyester or oil based rayon linings are common in low-cost and mass manufactured jackets — avoid them as they are the least breathable. The shortage of cloth during the World Wars and the popularity of single breasted jackets with returning war veterans made double breasted suits a rarity.
This is no longer a defining feature as mass-produced suit makers are copying this design detail in an attempt to present their goods in a favorable light.
Bemberg is a natural form of rayon made from cotton linter. Silk is a luxury fabric and therefore expensive. It is breathable though, so an option for hot weather. Polyester or oil based rayon linings are common in low-cost and mass manufactured jackets — avoid them as they are the least breathable. The inner jacket lining is usually color-coordinated with the suit fabric. If you decide to go with a contrasting color, it makes the suit more casual although you can keep it buttoned and no one will know.
A lining provides a suit jacket with durability and helps to maintain its line. An unlined suit jacket is bound to cost more than a suit that is completely lined. Unlined — Preferred in hot climates, unlined jackets are light and breathable. Keep in mind that summer jackets in light fabrics are bound to cost more than lined jacket. Fully Lined — Lining adds weight to a jacket. It also adds protection to the inside of the suit jacket. Business suits need to be lined.
However, the extra layer of cloth holds the heat in these jackets — not the best choice for summer and hot weather. Half Lined — The middle ground for suit jacket lining is a partial lining that protects the canvas of the suit without adding much weight. Partially lined jackets have a softer shape than fully lined jackets. As with unlined jackets, partially lined jackets also cost more than suits with regular full lining.
Suit jackets may or may not have a vent or slit in the lower back portion. The three options for vents in a suit jacket are: The button-hole on the lapel was originally designed to close the suit jacket and button it up. Now — it has found a more aesthetic purpose in sporting a boutonniere.
The boutonniere is worn on the left lapel of the suit jacket. Only higher-end suits have a lapel button-hole that is functional; with a hand-sewn lining to support the flower and a latch on the reverse side of the lapel to secure the stem of the flower.
A special occasion is not required to sport a flower on your suit. The only caveat is that wearing one will attract attention. Apart from funerals and solemn occasions — wearing a flower is going to be a conversation starter. Pictured on the right is a carnation fixed on the lapel buttonhole.
You could also wear a red rose boutonniere to send a message of passion and love. Some other flower choices are gardenia, lily of the valley, sweet william, orchids, hyacinths, daisies, and lilacs. The flower you choose should be appropriate for the occasion — red blooms or simple white for formal occasions. For less formal occasions — exotic and more colorful flowers are fine. Coordinate the boutonniere with the clothing you are wearing. A simple white pocket square is always a safe bet.
How you wear your suit jacket is a matter of your personal style taste and your budget. You can carry off a reasonably well constructed suit if you pay attention to the details.
Get them right and you will be setting a high sartorial standard. Click here to learn about nine suit colors and in what order you should buy them in and why!
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